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Day: October 13, 2019

[wine] Old world, France

Posted on October 13, 2019November 4, 2019 By admin

Alsace
Bordeaux
Bourgogne
Loire
Rhone

Languedoc-Roussillon

Grenache Blend: The Languedoc-Roussillon regions excel at blended red wines, which include varieties like Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. Imagine bold red raspberry, licorice, and grilled plum with a somewhat herbal oregano kick. Wines labeled with Corbières, Saint-Chinian, Fitou, Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Collioure are all great examples of Languedoc-Roussillon red blends.

Carignan: One of the most underrated red grapes of the Languedoc-Roussillon, Carignan offers up notes of dried cranberry, raspberry, licorice, and cured meats. Look for old vine (“vieilles vignes”) Carignan from Côtes Catalanes, Faugères, and Minervois.

Bordeaux

Left Bank Red Bordeaux: A bold, dry red using Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the blend, with flavors of black currant, graphic, mint, and gravelly-tobacco notes. This is a more rustic style of Cab-Merlot (compared to Napa Valley) that’s known to age well for 20+ years. Look for wines from the appellations from Graves or Médoc including Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Saint–Estephe, Margaux and Pessac-Leognan. Cru Bourgeois is a classification system for wines from the Médoc (or Left Bank) that contains 245 châteaux who have achieved their Cru Bourgeois status based on quality requirements.

Right Bank Red Bordeaux: A slightly softer, rustic red made with mostly Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with flavors of black cherry, tobacco, and mint. Look for wines from Pomerol, Saint-Émilion, and Fronsac.

White Bordeaux: Less the 10% of the region’s production is dedicated to White Bordeaux which is a zippy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Wines offer up pink grapefruit, green melon, and beeswax notes. The area between the 2 major rivers of Bordeaux (the Garonne and Dordogne rivers) is called Entre-Deux-Mers. Entre-Deux-Mers and Pessac-Léognan offer great examples.

Sauternais (sweet whites): An intensely sweet white wine (perfect for dessert or pairing with Foie Gras). The Sauternais appellations include Sauternes, Barsac, Cérons, and Cadillac among others.

Cru Classifications of Bordeaux

There are several classifications of Bordeaux wines across the region. Several are worth investigating to identify great regional producers.

Crus Artisans Small artisan producers of the Médoc
Crus Bourgeois For producers in the Médoc based on quality assessment of regional character
Crus Classés de Graves A classification of producers in Graves from 1953 (amended in 1959)
Crus Classés de Saint-Émilion A classification of top quality producers in Saint-Émilion that is revisited every 10 years.
Crus Classés de 1855 A 5-tier classification of producers in Médoc and Graves (and sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac) from 1855. One producer moved up a tier in 1973

Rhône Valley

Syrah: There are 2 major areas in the Rhône Valley and the smaller region that runs along the Rhône river is where you’ll find Syrah. Northern Rhône Syrah offers a much more savory profile with notes of black olive, plum, and dried green herbs. Look for St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.

Grenache-Syrah Blend: The Southern Rhône is famous for its blends of primarily Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Wines exude ripe raspberry, plum and dried lavender with a smoky overtone. The Côtes du Rhône Villages, including Vinsobres, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, and Rasteau, are all quite worthy. The most sought after wineries are mostly found in the sub-region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Loire Valley

Sauvignon Blanc: A lean and herbal style of Sauvignon Blanc with flavors of thyme, lime peel, honeydew melon, and grass. Wines are labeled Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Touraine, Reuilly, Quincy and Cheverny (for classic 100% Sauvignon Blanc).

Chenin Blanc: In the middle Loire Valley is where you’ll find awesome Chenin Blanc wines that range in style from dry to sweet and still to sparkling. Flavors range from delicate notes of flowers and apricots from Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire, to rich applesauce-like flavors from aged Savennières.

Muscadet (white): The perfect white for shellfish, clams, and mussels hailing from the western maritime region of Nantes in the Loire. Wines are bone-dry with subtle notes of sea shell, lime, green apple, and pear skin. Muscadet Sèvre et Maine is the most popular appellation for Muscadet.

South West

Malbec: Despite the region’s large size, the wines of South West are still being discovered outside of France. One notable find is Cahors, which is the origin place of Malbec. Wines are medium-bodied with notes of cherries and plums, with softer tannins and subtle notes of dried leaves.

Tannat: A rare wine with exceptionally bold tannins that’s said to be the wine of longevity. Wines offer black currant, licorice, and smoke, with drying tannins. Seek out Irouleguy and Madiran.

Champagne

Sparkling Blanc de Blancs: Blanc de Blancs is made with 100% Chardonnay grown in Champagne. Wines offer apple, lemon, and beeswax notes with crisp acidity and creamy bubbles.

Sparkling Blanc de Noirs: Made with the two red grapes of Champagne (Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir), Blanc de Noirs or “white of blacks” produces wines with more body and notes of white cherry, mushroom, lemon, and raspberry.

Bourgogne

Pinot Noir: The origin place of Pinot Noir produces a rustic and bold style of Pinot Noir with notes of cranberry, hibiscus, rose hip, and a dusting of earthy herbs. Bourgogne Rouge is a great place to start, but you can find greater quality from the Bourgogne Villages.

Oaked Chardonnay: The origin place of Chardonnay produces the richest styles from the regions in the Côte de Beaune. Read more about white Burgundy.

Unoaked Chardonnay: A lean style of Chardonnay with notes of quince, starfruit and sometimes passion fruit. Most notably you’ll find this style from Chablis, but Pouilly-Fuisse and the regions in Màcon also do a great job.

Beaujolais

Gamay: A region devoted to a single variety (Gamay) that offers seductive aromas of plum, cherry, violet, and peony. The region produces a ton of Beaujolais Nouveau, but the best wines to seek out are from one of the 10 Beaujolais Crus.

Alsace

Riesling: A dry style of Riesling that is quite refreshing as it is haunting with its sometimes smoky aromas. All 51 Grand Cru vineyards specialize in this grape.

Pinot Gris: A sweeter style of Pinot Gris that explodes with apricots, limes, and honeyed richness.

Gewürztraminer: One of the most aromatic wines on the planet with notes of rose water, lychee, and perfume. Wines are richer in style, taste just off-dry (although most are dry) and are best enjoyed within a year or two of release.

uncategorized

[wine] New world, South America

Posted on October 13, 2019October 16, 2019 By admin
Argentina

Malbec

Before Argentina took on Malbec, it was just a minor grape in South-West France. Today, Malbec makes up three quarters of Argentina’s vineyards and is spread throughout the world. Malbec struggles to maintain acidity in lower elevations but does fabulously in higher elevation spots where there is a large diurnal temperature shift (cold nights and sunny days). Single-varietal Malbec wines are tasty, but be sure to try a Malbec blend with Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec is a blending grape in Red Bordeaux Blends.

Mendoza

Maipú
The province’s most historic wine region is just south of Mendoza city. Malbec wines from Maipú offer red fruit (red currant, pomegranate, boysenberry, red plum, and cherry) flavors with a touch of earthy cedar or tobacco.

Some producers to know:

Bodega Lopez
Trapiche wineries

An area called Barrancas, which is slightly warmer than the surrounding Maipú, is noted for producing wines with darker fruit flavors and softer acidity, which is true of its Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and meaty Syrah.

Luján de Cuyo

You may pay a premium for high-end wines from Luján de Cuyo, but these wineries also excel at offering value-driven second label wines. Malbec from Cuyo will offer more black fruits (blackberry, boysenberry, plum sauce, black cherry) with Asian spice notes and a dusty or graphite-like finish.

Some producers to know:

Catena Zapata
Achaval-Ferrer
Bodegas Norton
Viña Cobos
Bodega Vistalba
Durigutti

Uco Valley

With some of the highest elevation vineyards of all of Mendoza, the Uco Valley (or Valle de Uco) is known for producing wines with elegance and excellent aging potential. Wines from this region offer dense, layered black fruit (black plum, raspberry, blackberry, and olive) with savory notes of red pepper flakes and a dusty, cocoa powder-like finish.

Some producers to know:

Clos de la Siete
O. Fournier
Domaine Bousquet
Bodega Lurton
Altos Los Hormigas

Sometimes wines from Uco Valley will be labeled after the nearest town, including Tupungato, Vista Flores, Tunuyán, Campos de los Andes, Los Sauces, San Carlos, La Consulta, and Villa Seca. Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sémillon, and Chardonnay are the primary varieties in the valley.

Wine Regions Beyond Mendoza

Argentina’s diverse countryside lend themselves ever-so-well to the grapevine. To the northwest, in the provinces of Salta and Catamarca, winemakers are experimenting with Torrontés and Cabernet Sauvignon at some of the highest altitude vineyards in the world (some upwards of 2597m above sea level). Others are exploring the wind-swept Patagonia regions of Neuquén and Río Negro where Pinot Noir and Merlot thrive.

Chile

As a new world wine region, with 2,700 miles of coastline along the frigid Pacific Ocean, Chile produces wines that are both fruit-forward factor and herbaceous. It’s no wonder then, that French wine producers from Bordeaux have invested heavily in the region.

Chile can essentially be split up into 3 major zones: North, Central, and South. The North and South are the frontier regions, where some of the most innovative winemaking is happening. The Central area is the most classic wine-growing area, with hundreds of years of winemaking history and is also home to Chile’s largest producers – this is where you’ll find the valleys of Aconcagua, Maipo, Colchagua and Cachapoal Valleys.

2009, 2011, 2013 and 2014 all produced excellent quality reds.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely-planted grape variety in Chile. Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon typically produces a lighter colored, less tannic style of Cabernet Sauvignon, with juicy flavors of black cherry, plums, smoked bell pepper, and (on some more refined examples) mint and pencil lead.

The Maipo Valley is well known among experts for its bolder styles of Cabernet, outfitted with darker notes of blackberry and cocoa powder. For a more elegant, Bordeaux-styled Cabernet, Colchagua and the Rapel Valley offer wines with black fruit and pencil-lead-like minerality.

Carménère

At first, Carménère was thought to be Merlot when it was first transplanted into Chile. Thankfully, this little mistake is likely what saved Carménère from extinction. Carménère has a similar profile to a light-bodied, juicy style of Merlot with plum and black cherry fruit along with mild tannin. What makes it different than Merlot is Carménère’s high prevalence of an aroma compound called Pyrazine which gives wine more savory flavors of black pepper, bell pepper, and cocoa powder. This is an absolutely fabulous food wine and one of Chile’s treasured grapes.

The finer examples of Carménère have been found in tiny areas within the larger Rapel Valley area including Peumo in Cachapoal and Apalta in Colchagua. Keep your eyes open for these sub-appellations.

Syrah

Syrah is an important grape in Chile and is only just starting to make waves in the wine community. These wines are distinctly more elegant (cool climate) in style and consistently offer up spiced meaty notes along with red or black plummy fruit. Tannins can be bolder in Chilean Syrah, which is one of the reasons this wine has become so intriguing as of late; it also has the potential to age very well.

Within the Central Valley, the region of Rapel Valley (which includes both Cachapoal and Colchagua Valleys) has consistently shown some of the finest examples of Syrah from Chile. Beyond this, you’ll find Syrah also grows alongside Chardonnay and produces several lush and plump examples from Casablanca and Leyda Valleys (in Aconcagua). Some of the best values are found in the extreme wine growing regions including Elqui, Limarí, and the Choapa Valley (in Coquimbo).

Aconcagua
The Aconcagua wine region stretches from the coast inland, and the area for Bordeaux varieties is located around the cities of Llay Lay, San Felipe, and Los Andes. It is one of the sunniest and driest regions for the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère in Chile. For this reason, the best vineyard sites are usually situated on slopes and terraces which use elevation to increase the temperature modulation between night and day. The vineyards here produce some of the most intensely structured (tannic) red wines, with higher levels of acidity due to the cool nightly temperatures. You’ll find that the Bordeaux-style blends from this region typically exhibit subtle notes of dried berries and intense minerality, along with a milieu of spices that include red pepper, paprika, and black tea.

Some producers to know:

Viña Errazuriz
Viña von Siebenthal
Viña San Esteban

Maipo
The region of Maipo follows the Maipo river valley to the south of Santiago out to the Pacific Ocean. The valley receives cooling winds from the ocean and has a much more Mediterranean climate. The sweet spot in this transverse valley for Bordeaux varieties is found around the towns of Pirque and Puente Alto at the base of the Andes. This area, called Alto Maipo, is famed for its full-bodied red blends, which are reminiscent of the Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, exhibiting notes of black currant, black cherry, fig paste, and baking spices.

Some producers to know:

Concha y Toro’s “Don Melchor” vineyard (largest producer in Chile and largest vineyard owner in the world)
Viña Almaviva
Viñedo Chadwick
Montgras
Viña Carmen
(produced the first single varietal Carménère)

Cachapoal
The more Northern of the two transverse valleys, Cachapoal is known to produce wines with more elegance and minerality. The sub-region, Alto Cachapoal, is at the foot of the Andes and is known for it’s wines with more tart cherry flavors and a distinct gamey/savory nose. The Bordeaux style blends and Carménère from this area offer tart fruit notes along with moderate tannins and a herbaceous finish – think dominant red fruits, structure, and minerality. This is also a great spot for Chilean Syrah (a must try). The other highlighted sub-region for Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon in Cachapoal is called Peumo, and produces some of the most balanced, and lush Cabernet Sauvignon blends. This (along with Colchagua) is where you’ll find some of the highest rated single-varietal Carménère in the world.

Some producers to know:

Lagar de Bezana
Vik
(estate is located in between Peumo and Apalta)

Colchagua
The most southern of the two transverse valleys contains some of the more prime vineyard area for Bordeaux varietals from San Fernando to Santa Cruz. The sub-area called Apalta (just outside of Santa Cruz), is very well known for it’s age-worthy Bordeaux-style blends that waft off aromas of black currant, mint, pencil lead, and clove. You’ll also find a great deal of Carménère here, which has rich flavors of red and black fruit, chocolate, and peppercorn.

Some producers to know:

Koyle
Montes
Casa Silva
Casa Lapostelle
(created by the founders and owners of Grand Marnier and focusing on Chilean wine with a very French aesthetic)
Viña Neyen de Apalta
Viu Manent
Viñedos Terranoble

uncategorized

[wine] New world, South Africa

Posted on October 13, 2019October 16, 2019 By admin

Cabernet Sauvignon (red/Stellenbosch, Paarl)

There is a savory complexity to South African Cab, which makes it a delightful alternative to the more fruit-forward Cab values from Paso Robles or Sonoma, California. Imagine black pepper, bell pepper rounded out with currant, blackberry and plum. South African Cabernet Sauvignon fits somewhere inbetween new world and old world; it’s savory, but without all the grit of a French Bordeaux Superieur.

Syrah (red/Stellenbosch, Paarl)

Syrah from South Africa is becoming popular due to its dark spiced fruit flavors with a chocolate like richness. It’s important to note that since Syrah grows thoughout South Africa, it has a wide range of styles. You will find more savory wines from cooler regions such as Paarl and Stellenbosch and more richly intense wines from dry areas such as Robertson and Swartland.

Pinotage (red)

Pinotage is South Africa’s very own grape variety; a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Pinotage offers juicy raspberry to blueberry fruit flavors with spiced chocolate and tobacco. The wines are much more dense, higher alcohol and typically more savory than Pinot Noir. Pinotage often gets blended with Syrah.

uncategorized

[wine] Old world, Italy

Posted on October 13, 2019October 16, 2019 By admin

Nebbiolo (red/Piemonte):

The most exalted red wine variety of Piedmont is Nebbiolo. This wine is striking to experience because its delicate, pale, brick-red color and floral cherry and rose aromas are completely contrasted by somewhat aggressive, chewy tannins. Because of its structure, you’ll find that Nebbiolo wines are a favorite for wine collectors who will happily set aside wines to open them decades later to reveal a delightfully soft and delicate wine. Even though Nebbiolo has a reputation for tannins and long-term aging, many of the sub-regions (Langhe, Alba, etc.) produce softer styles with a similar weight to whole-cluster Pinot Noir.

Barolo DOCG (100%)
The color is pale garnet, which doesn’t really give you any clue of the intensity in this wine. Its rigid tannins, bold flavors, and higher alcohol (usually around 14% ABV) are more like something you’d find in Bordeaux. Barolo is actually the fruitiest and most full-bodied of all the Nebbiolo regions in Northern Italy. Expect flavors of raspberry, red cherry, roses, potpourri, cocoa, anise, licorice, allspice, truffles, and a clay lick (Tar & Roses).

Barolo wines age at least 18 months in the barrel, with a total of three years aging before release. Even though that sounds like a lot, this wine is really meant to age. Most traditionally-made examples only start to come around at 10+ years (when all the tannins chill out). Riserva Wines labeled Barolo “Riserva” are aged for a minimum of five years.

There are eleven different communes of Barolo, with two different main taste styles (based on the soil type: limestone vs. sandstone). The lighter-tasting wine communes include La Morra and Barolo, with limestone-based soils. The bolder-tasting wine communes include Serralunga d’Alba, Monforte d’Alba, and Castiglione Falletto, with more weathered sandstone-clay soils.

Barbaresco DOCG (100%)
The mostly fertile limestone-based soils in Barbaresco (along with its slightly milder climate) results in wines with noticeably less tannins than Barolo. That’s not to say Barbaresco isn’t tannic; it’s still a monster! It’s just a nicer, friendlier sort of beast.

In terms of flavors, Barbaresco delivers amazing red fruit. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cherry syrup, and cotton candy all mingle together on top of roses, potpourri, and lighter notes of anise. It’s not quite as “tarry.” Barbaresco must age 26 months (~2 years), with at least 9 months in the barrel. Barbaresco Riserva must age 50 months (~4 years), with about 24 months in the barrel.

Roero DOCG (95% min)
Roero also sits within Alba in Piedmont right in-between Barolo and Barbaresco. This wine continues to fly under the radar even though it was recently elevated to DOCG status in 2004. Nebbiolo wines are every bit as intense and structured as Barolo (but usually at a fraction of the price). They also have Barbaresco’s sweet fruit. Roero Riserva requires at least of 32 months of aging, including six months in the barrel.

Nebbiolo d’Alba (100%)
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (85% min.)
Piemonte Nebbiolo DOC (85% min.)

Barbera (red/Piemonte):

Barbera is the most planted variety in Piedmont and it’s what you’ll often find the locals drinking. Great wines of Barbera deliver aromas of red and black fruit (particularly raspberries, lingonberries, and blackberries), along with espresso, smoke, and fresh anise, supported by velvety tannins and a spicy finish. The wines are often oaked to deliver richer, opulent fruit flavors, but most everyday Barberas are medium-bodied with a touch of spicy-earthy terroir. Despite the prevalence of this grape in the region, Barbera continually flies under the radar and usually offers good economic value. Here are the regions that specialize in Barbera:

Barbera d’Asti DOCG (90% min)
Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG
Barbera del Monferrato DOC
Barbera d’Alba DOC

Corvina (red/Veneto):
Corvina is the most important of a blend of 3 grapes (Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara) used in Valpolicella and Bardolino. Wines offer tart red cherry, cinnamon, carob and green peppercorn flavors.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Expect bold aromas of cherry liqueur, black fig, carob, cinnamon and plum sauce along with subtle notes of green peppercorn, chocolate and crushed gravel dust. Some Amarone wines should really continue to age for 10 or 15 years longer to develop those keen flavors, so “the older the better” tends to reign true with this particular wine.

To make Amarone wine:
1. pick grapes
2. dry grapes until there is 40% less liquid (called apassimento and can take as long as 120 days)
3. slowly press dried grapes
4. slowly ferment grapes into wine over a period of 35–50 days (this is a long time for wine!)

However, due to modern technology two distinct styles have emerged. There are those who practice the traditional method of naturally drying their grapes and using neutral oak or chestnut barrels to age them and there are those who use a modern method of quickly drying grapes using temperature and humidity-controlled rooms and aging their wines in new oak barrels. Both methods can make excellent tasting wines but they will taste a bit different on first release and also tend to age differently.

Traditional Method
Amarone della Valpolicella made in the traditional method tend to maintain their acidity longer and, thus, will also potentially age quite a bit longer too. These wines also take a bit longer to come around, meaning you’ll want to be sure to hold them for around 20 years to really let the wine shine. It’s common to see producers practicing the traditional technique to only use the regional grapes of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella in the blend.

Modern Method
Amarone della Valpolicella made in the modern method tend to be quite a bit bolder upon release because of the help of new oak aging which adds flavors of chocolate, molasses and vanilla along with cherry liqueur. It’s also more common to see non-indigenous varieties blended into the modern-styled wines. Legally, it can be up to 25% of other grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. The wines taste awesome right out of the gates but aging-wise tend to taper off a bit faster. Some will only last 8–10 years, whereas others with bolder red fruit characteristics will go 20 or so years.

Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC
Ripasso della Valpolicella DOC

After an Amarone wine is created, the leftover grape bits (aka pomace) are strained off and added to Valpolicella Classico. This enables the fermenting wine to have richer flavors and also produce a higher alcohol wine (a higher ABV adds more viscosity). Ripasso della Valpolicella can use the pomace of Recioto della Valpolicella, which is a dessert wine. As you can imagine this style of Ripasso is even more intense!

Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
Dessert wine! Same grapes as Amarone, same process. But fermentation is
halted before completion to leave residual sugar in the wine. Extremely concentrated, spectacularly complex. Rich dried fruit, lots of tannin and bright acidity. 12% ABV. Can cellar for 20-30 years under proper conditions.

Sangiovese (red/Tuscany, Umbria):

The most planted red wine of Tuscany and all of Italy is famous from the regions of Chianti, Montalcino and Montepulciano in Tuscany. Wines offer raspberry, roasted tomato, and balsamic flavors with an earthy whiff of wet clay. There are many great values to try including Chianti Superiore, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Montecucco and Montefalco Rosso and Torgiano from Umbria.

Montepulciano (red/Abruzzo, Marche):

Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Sangiovese wine from Tuscany, Montepulciano is a wine grape that makes medium-bodied red wines with plum, boysenberry and coffee flavors with subtle notes of herbs and crushed black pepper. Most notably look for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Rosso Conero.

Aglianico (red/Campania):

A full-bodied red wine with deep savory notes of white pepper, smoke and cured meats that give way to subtle notes of black cherry and spiced plum. Aglianico has high tannins and acidity that make it so the wine improves after a decade of aging. From Campania seek out Aglianico del Taburno.

Primitivo / Zinfandel (Red/Puglia):

If you’re searching for a richer, fuller-bodied red with abundant weight look towards Puglian Primitivo. Primitivo tastes of dark fruit like fresh figs, blueberries and baked blackberries. There’s a distinct dried fruit-leather character to it as well. The word Primitivo doesn’t mean primitive in Italian, but actually means early ripening since these grapes accumulate a lot of sugar early in the season. The early ripening means resulting wines are big, luscious and full of fruit.

Nero d’Avola (red/Sicily):

A bolder red wine variety with fruity flavors of plum, raspberry sauce and licorice with fine tannins with a somewhat smoky, spiced finish. Pairs excellently with rich roasted meats and veggies.

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